Camilla Franks' Guide To Lisbon

Lisbon might be a capital city, and one of the oldest in Europe, but it’s made up of endearing, interlocking neighbourhoods.

Each one has its own particular personality and is an adventure in itself. The modern and ancient fuse together effortlessly. Centuries-old artforms are celebrated, and yet contemporary culture pulses through the city’s sprawl.

I was drawn to the nearby coastline like a magnet, where a stretch of golden beaches, freckled with coffee shops, cocktail bars and restaurants, reminded me of my Bondi home. Lisbon, I think I love you.

Where? Alfama

What’s it like? Full of character. Alfama is one of the original districts: traditional homes, museums and festivals thrive at its heart.

What should I do there? Fado joints: Lisbon is the birthplace of the musical genre Fado which means ‘fate’. Although typically melancholic, with lyrics about the harsh realities of life, don’t be mistaken in thinking this might put a dampener on an evening out. Stories pour forth in intimate, candlelit venues from gritty grottos to Renaissance-era mansion rooms to funky bars. A popular late-night tradition, Fado attracts a lot of local love.

FADO VENUES TO VISIT:

Mesa De Frades
Clube De Fado
Case De Linhares
Tasca Do Jaime
The Fado museum

TRAVEL MEMENTOES FROM CAMILLA FRANKS TRAVELS

Experience Azulejo art: Azulejo tiling is an ancient ceramic practice created by the Portuguese. Often featured across the inside or outside of Portuguese buildings, Azulejo tiles are pieced like a jigsaw, depicting anything from mythical creatures, to nature, historical battle scenes to humour. I am fascinated by the intricate stories they tell, where words are never required.

PLACES TO SEE AZULEJO:

Museu Nacional do Azulejo
XVIII Azulejo and Faience Store
Monasteiro de Sāo Vincente de Fora
The Palácio dos Marqueses de Fronteira in the nearby Benfica district
Museu Des Artes Decorativas

Make for the markets: Visit ‘Feira da Ladre’ which means ‘Market of Thieves’ but don’t let the name fool you. Established in the 13th century, this now famous Bohemian emporium is full of exquisite antiques, vintage clothes, art, books and jewellery and it’s come a long way from its rumoured dubious origins.

Where? Cais do Sodre

What’s it like? This spot on the waterfront was once full of industrial warehouses and held an unsavoury reputation as a hotspot for sailors. Its modern iteration maintains the gritty vibe, yet with a lively dining scene, major markets and more. Look out for emerging fashion designers and artists popping up among winding back lanes.

What should I do there? Watch the sun go down: The Cais do Sodre waterfront is peppered with eateries and an abundance of outdoor seating from tables to sun lounges, deck chairs and umbrellas. Find a vantage point, order your cocktail or mocktail and gaze out into the blue, watching boats cruise by.

Drink on Pink Street: This area was once the red light district but is now paved pink and full of characterful, buzzing bars and perfectly reputable establishments. A nod to the risqué remains with places like the Pensão Amor Bar. An erstwhile 1970s brothel, it maintains its original décor including pole dancing rooms, glass ceilings and art.

PLACED TO LOVE:

Pensão Amor Bar
Sol e Pesca
Mercardo da Riberia
Espumantaria do Cais
Lupita pizza

Where? Chiado and Bairro Alto

What’s it like? Bohemian meets cosmopolitan in boutiques, restaurants, hotels and views.

What should I do there? See the statue: The two areas are separated by a statue of the poet Luís de Camões and eight smaller statues representing personalities from Portuguese literature. The sculptures are a spectacle in themselves, and it’s a popular meeting spot for locals and tourists ready to head off into the night, or the day.

Wine and dine: There are so many incredible restaurants in both these areas, that I was spoiled for choice. Like many areas of Lisbon, it is full of steep hills, so you will get your steps in, and also enjoy breathtaking views from one of the many rooftop venues.

MY MUST-SEE LIST:

Adega Machado
Palacio Chiado
Pastelaria Alcôa
Tivoli Avenida Liberdade

Where? Principe Real

What is it like? It has been called one of Lisbon’s most exciting areas and has undergone a recent transformation in the best possible way. Charming old buildings have been gracefully renovated into captivating, contemporary food and drink haunts.

What should I do there? Mederios magic: Wander through this museum that was the private home of famous art collector Antonio de Mederios. Beautiful historic objects grace the 27 gallery rooms.

Coffee culture: Get your buzz on in one of the many artisan cafes, then take your energy to the street and be drawn in by one of the many independent boutiques or art galleries.

Walk in the park: Or even sit down and watch the world go by. Principe Real has tranquil public gardens, literally a breath of fresh air among epic architecture.

MY RECOMMENDATIONS:

Medeiros e Almelda
Principe Real garden
Pavilhão Chinês
Dramático
UAO gelato bar

Where? Alcantara

What’s it like? Lisbon’s cool, micro neighbourhood where creatives, digital nomads and their stylists meet.

What should I do there? Modern markets: The LX Factory is a vibrant cultural hub providing a contrast to the more traditional markets of Lisbon. Scattered with co-working spaces, stalls and coffee shops, it’s the place to find avant-garde, kitsch and contemporary designers.

Admire the art: Street murals and graffiti are ever-changing here with talented, unconventional artists creating their own galleries on roller doors and brick walls.

TO SEE AND DO:

The LX Factory
Ler Devagar bookstore
The Therapist café
Cerâmica Factory

Where? Belém

What’s it like? A seafront town brimming with history.

What should I do there? The majestic Monastery and more: The Jerónimos Monastery and the Belém Tower can be found here, both breathtaking architectural jewels and UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Take a boat ride: The best way to reach Belém is by boat. You will be surrounded by beautiful views and it’s a better option than the tram, a more romantic option in my opinion.

Taste the tarts: Portuguese tarts, now devoured the world over, were first made in Patéis de Belém, a small shop in Belém that was conveniently attached to a sugar cane refinery in 1937. Pop in and enjoy one of these delicious pastries. Or five. Or six.

BEAUTIES OF BELÉM:

Jerónimos Monastery
The Coach Museum
Belém Tower
Belém boat rides
Patéis de Belem

Obrigado for joining me on this journey through legendary, luscious, lively, luminous Lisbon. If you need any more evidence of how smitten I am with this eclectic city… stop by one of our flagship boutiques. Lisbon’s storied shopfronts became the inspiration for the tiled exterior of the Hotel of Curiosity – a design which carries throughout all my flagship CAMILLA Boutiques.

I hope to see you there soon.